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This Is A

AOTC-JF Blaster Kit

Price: $220.00
Out of stock
Item Number: AOTC-JF
AOTC-JF Blaster Kit



This is a model kit and requires fitting / finishing / assembly.

- Machined from solid aluminum and brass.
- Stainless steel screws.
- Molded solid resin handle.
- Light up LED flash hider - 6  LED's included (random mixed colors-RYGB)
- LED's have built in resistors so no external resistor required !!!.
- 4 triple AAA batteries required (batteries not included).
- Working trigger and Power Regulator.
- Pewter counterweight ( low melt 300F).
- Medium skill level required.

Build Guidelines:

- Tools required: metric and inch hex wrenches, screwdrivers, soldering equipment,
thin wire (22-24 gauge or finer), epoxy/glue, body/sculpting putty, paint.
- Wipe machined parts down with alcohol to degrease.
- Finishing tips for machined aluminum parts:
     - polish for chrome-like finish.
     - buff radially with fine steel wool for satin finish.
     - leave as-is and expose to heavy use for worn/used/real world finish.
- Dry fit parts before continuing to the final assembly.

Handle Prep:
- Debur / Shape / Paint handle.
    - ( auto body putty works well for any additional shaping / filling )
Wet sand handle with extra XX fine sandpaper for any other shaping desired.
   - ( Some people say dry sanding worked better for them so test sand to see what works for you).

- Make sure to sand and clean the handle completely, there may be some silicone mold release
   on the handle, and paint will not stick to the silicone if present.
- Paint as desired. 

Shape ends as rounded points:

Plasma Chamber:
- Debur sharp edges on plasma chamber.
- Screw plasma chamber on to handle as shown.
- Use the short screw for the front and the long screw for the back as shown (6-32 thread).
- If the prop is for display only just the screws should be strong enough.
- If the prop is for cosplay then rough sand the radius in the top of the handle and the underside
of the plasma chamber, then put epoxy/glue on the mating surfaces and in the screw holes.
Note: Gluing the plasma chamber to the handle is a permanent operation so make sure both pieces
are finished as desired.

Power Regulator:
The power regulator knob is designed to rotate when the brass pin is depressed.
- Make sure the set screw (M2.5 thread) in the power regulator pin is sticking out just long enough to engage the holes in the knob.
- Use a weak glue or wax to hold in place (for future removal if necessary).

- Make sure set screws (M3 thread) in power regulator are not sticking in the inside hole.
- Put the pin in power regulator lining up the slot in the pin with the set screw at the bottom of the hole.
(left set screw in this picture)
- Screw the set screw down in to the slot in the pin until it hits bottom, then unscrew about 1/4 turn.
- Use weak glue/wax to hold this screw in place.
(This screw is just to keep the pin from turning, not for clamping)

- Put the spring into the counterbore in the power regulator first.

- Insert the pin into the knob and put that assembly into the power regulator.
- You will have to hold the knob in because of the spring and tighten the front set screw in to the groove in the knob.
- Then back the set screw out about 1/4 turn, use weak glue/wax to hold in place.
(This screw is just to keep the knob from coming out, not for clamping)

Battery Holder:
- Glue/epoxy spring in to counterbore in short battery cap
- Cut a small notch in the side of one end of the clear battery tube and the short cap for the wires.

- Solder fine wire to the middle coil of the spring, about 12 inches (254 mm) long is required,
and will have to be cut shorter after installation.
- This is the Positive ( + ) wire.

- Solder wire (about 2-3 inches long) to the contact pin in the long plastic cap.
- Push into the short counterbore end.

- Glue the short cap with the spring to the clear battery tube lining up the notches so the wires pass through.
- You will need a separate wire (about 15 inches - 381 mm) to go through the battery tube as shown.
- This wire will need to be cut to size after installation.

Flash Hider:
- LED's are 5mm size, 3-6VDC
- Cut LED leads a little shorter and solder wires to extend them.
- Make sure to cover each LED lead with shrink tube or tape to insulate.
- Insert LED's into holes in flash hider, use weak glue to secure.
- Solder all the positive wires together and all of the negative wires together.
- Short lead on the LED is negative, long lead is positive (see schematic pic).
- Resistors are built in to the LED's so no external resistor is required !
- The LED's included with the kit are clear so they blend in with the flash hider,
   (make sure to test each one to check the color)

- Glue brass insert into the front of the flash hider.

Counter Weight :
- Finish counter weight blade as desired.
- The pewter counter weight can be fine wet sanded and polished as shown.
(before/after pic)

- Screw counter weight on to blade with 3 screws (6-32 thread) as shown.
- The long sloping side of the blade faces the rear.
- The large lobed side of the counter weight faces the front.

- Screw in to bottom of handle

- Insert outer barrel into handle and screw the short screw (M3 thread) almost all the way in as shown.
- Note the angled end of the barrel goes in the plasma chamber.
- Leave this screw loose for now.

- I have to apologize in advance for this operation, just be patient with it.
- Hold the handle upside down and put power regulator assembly into the barrel and put in the long screw (M3 thread).
- You will have to use tweezers and needle nose pliers to get it in, then tighten up with a hex wrench.
(the short bent end of the wrench might have to be ground shorter to fit)
- Make sure the screw goes through the barrel and the plasma chamber then threads into the power regulator.

- Run the wires from the battery tube through the handle as you insert the inner sleeve/battery holder assembly in to the barrel.
- Line up the wires with the notch in the brass barrel sleeve.
- Finish trigger as desired.
- Put brass trigger pin, threaded side first, through the trigger and slide the spring on the notched side.

- Cut a small strip of thin brass sheet and solder one of the battery wires to it.
- Glue the brass strip and wire to the inside of the trigger slot as shown in the nex picture.

- Strip and solder a length of the other wire.
- Attach the other wire to the screw (M3 thread) on top of the trigger.
- Bend the wire at an angle so it makes contact with brass strip glued in to trigger slot when the trigger is pulled.
(Or make up your own connection)
(There is only about 1 to 1.5 mm of travel on the trigger, so if you want more file the tab on the inside of the
handle slot that goes in the top notch of the trigger, this will allow the trigger to move forward creating more travel

- Pivot the trigger up in to the slot making sure to put the small notch in to the handle first.
- Screw the brass pin (6-32 thread) into the threaded hole in the bottom of the slot, be careful not to cross thread or strip the threads.

- If you want the pin shorter put it in a drill press (or hand drill) and file/polish the round end down.

- Load 4 triple AAA batteries in to the plastic battery holder positive side first.
- Put the wire coming out of the tube throuth the hole in the long battery cap.
- Put the battery cap in the barrel making sure to also captivate the inner brass barrel.
- Put on flash hider and fold extra wire inside the battery cap, attach with screw (M3 thread) under the barrel.